WEEKEND IN PHILLLY
Article and Photographs By Robb Helfrick
During autumn or the upcoming winter months, Philadelphia is an easy weekend getaway offering discoveries on every block. As one of America’s most historic and hip towns, Philly’s concentrated urban city center hosts cultural experiences that please every taste, so a distant journey isn’t necessary for a memorable travel escape.
Philadelphia is Pennsylvania’s most populous city and the sixth-largest urban area in the nation. That size offers a huge array of attractions, amenities, and unique sites that could fill multiple weekends. If the weather offers outdoor challenges, indoor activities are plentiful here. But don’t overlook Philadelphia’s walkable neighborhoods- one of the city’s most alluring attributes.
HISTORY
History is Philly’s calling card. The city was the primary locale for our founding fathers as they declared independence from Britain and created a new nation. Philadelphia’s sprawling historic district is home to fascinating old buildings filled with symbolic artifacts and national treasures that harken to 1776.
Independence National Historic Site is managed by the National Park Service, and it interprets the nation’s founding ideals. A tour of Independence Hall and the surrounding buildings reveals where the first Congress met, debated the Constitution, and signed the Declaration of Independence. Nearby, the most famous bell in the world hangs at the Liberty Bell Center. This international symbol is accessible to all with free daily tours.
Visitors enjoy the colonial architecture preserved beneath towering trees and framed by patriotic statues. The Ben Franklin Museum explores the great man’s life and character through artifacts, computer simulations, and interactive displays. Franklin and his family rest in a corner of Christ Church cemetery, one of several ancient burial grounds tucked into center city.
AROUND THE OLD CITY
Surrounding the Independence Historic District are wonderful neighborhoods with stately houses standing along ancient streets. An Easterly stroll down Pine Street from Broad Street is a walk back into time. As the numbered cross streets count down block by block, the evolution of the city’s history dates back to the 1700s, while its modern-day charm is complementary.
Society Hill has beautiful brownstones on tree-lined avenues that ooze old-world charm. Near Market Street, Elfreth’s Alley is a historic promenade boasting 32 homes that date back to 1703.
In other quiet neighborhoods, steepled churches, handsome brick homes with wrought-iron accents, one-of-a-kind shops, chic restaurants, and an excellent blend of old and new lifestyles are on display.
CLASSIC AND UNIQUE NEIGHBORHOODS
Philadelphia also has an eclectic mix of ethnic and funky neighborhoods. In Chinatown, visitors journey to the Far East after passing a welcoming Asian arch decorated with Chinese symbols and artwork. Streetside markets and authentic restaurants bring ancient Asian culture to contemporary Pennsylvania.
In South Philly, the East Passyunk neighborhood offers a mixture of indie boutiques, cutting-edge restaurants, and lively bars situated along a diagonal north-south avenue. Fishtown has narrow streets and is a destination for coffee or cocktails. Washington Square West and Belle Vista are also popular neighborhoods worth exploring.
ART
Philadelphia’s passion for art is never far from view. Rocky Balboa ran up the city’s art museum steps during a famous scene from the 1970s Rocky movie, and visitors still imitate that joyful sprint. The Philadelphia Art Museum is an iconic venue, easily one of the country’s finest art institutions.
Away from that well-known treasure, Philly is awash in art on every block. The city’s acclaimed mural project encouraged artists to paint their visions on local buildings throughout town. At last count, over 4000 murals adorn Philadelphia streets, from whimsical subjects to portraiture to inspirational motifs. When walking around this massive outdoor museum, smaller murals appear and vanish quickly, while other works hold attention longer since they’re painted on a scale ten stories tall.
Along South Street and on nearby avenues, Isaiah Zagar’s mosaic artwork has been legendary since the 1990s. Zagar came to Philadelphia and established a body of work commissioned by art lovers and spurred by his imagination. His “Magic Garden” at 1020 State Street is open for tours every day but Tuesday.
ARCHITECTURE
Philadelphia’s geographic and emotional heart is centered at City Hall. This legendary 1894 building is the city’s most inspiring structure. The white marble and limestone building impresses as the world’s largest freestanding masonry structure. City Hall is topped with a statue of Ben Franklin and is open for tours. During the holiday season, outdoor vendors and festive lighting add to the Christmas spirit at City Hall’s holiday market.
Philly’s Independence Hall district, with its surrounding red-brick buildings and other early American landmark structures, never disappoint.
Artfully combined with Philly’s classic architecture, the city skyline contains contemporary buildings that showcase modern styles. The shimmering glass skin of One Liberty Place reflects the daylight sky, topped with its distinctive spire. The Comcast Technology Center, which opened in 2018, is the loftiest Philly building at 1150 feet and the highest United States structure outside New York or Chicago. Philadelphia is home to 7 of the 10 tallest buildings in Pennsylvania.
MUSEUMS
Feed your intellect at one of several world-class museums in center city Philadelphia. The Barnes Museum is a perfect first choice with its collection from benefactor Albert Barnes (1872-1951) which includes artworks by Renoir, Cezanne, Matisse, and Picasso.
The Mutter Museum is Philly’s quirkiest attraction. Founded in 1787 as a medical library to “lessen human misery,” this space houses an astounding array of medical artifacts and biological specimens. Included are the famed “Soap Lady” (a fatty substance called adipocire encases this woman’s exhumed remains), the cast and livers of conjoined twins Chang and Eng Bunker, and a collection of 139 human skulls from Viennese anatomist Josef Hyrtl. All these oddities are displayed in a first-class museum setting adjacent to an outdoor garden.
Other notable Philadelphia museums include the Franklin Institute, the Penn Museum, the Science History Institute, and the Museum of the American Revolution.
FOOD SCENE
Foodies will love Philadelphia’s dining scene, where any culinary whim or ethnic taste can be satisfied. Start at Reading Terminal Market (51 N 12th St), where 75 interior vendors sell delectable wares including baked goods, fresh seafood, meats, poultry, and local produce.
The Italian Market on 9th Street is one of the largest open-air markets in the country and one of Philadelphia’s eclectic food hubs. Nearby is the central location for another Philly claim to fame: the cheesesteak. Pat’s and Gino’s are two famous names in this sandwich dynasty, while other locals favor Campo’s or Sonny’s to satisfy a cheesesteak craving.
In Philadelphia, whether you hunger for Mexican, Mediterranean, Asian, or Italian cuisines, or for local favorites like pork rolls or soft pretzels, you can find it here. Some restaurants are intimate, known mostly by locals as they’re tucked into residential neighborhoods and offer only a few tables. Other establishments cater to tourists and business diners on a larger scale.
A WALKABLE COMMUNITY
During mild autumn weather, Philadelphia is a perfect town for walking. Each block has its own distinct flavor, seasoned with homes, murals, public buildings, and parks. Two of the premier green spaces to explore are Washington Square and Rittenhouse Square. The former is near Independence Hall and it contains towering trees and impressive monuments. Rittenhouse Square is a fantastic people-watching locale, surrounded by tall buildings, cozy restaurants, and upscale shopping.
In central Philadelphia, follow the tree-named streets of Pine, Chestnut, and Spruce (all south of City Hall), and each leading east and west of Broad Street to well-kept neighborhoods, shopping districts, and hints of Philly history. These avenues are bustling during daylight and early evening hours with residents walking dogs or trekking home from work. They mingle with visitors searching for a cocktail, meal, or live entertainment.
LANDMARKS AND CULTURAL SITES
The pedestrian walkway of the Ben Franklin Bridge, under the blue-towered spans, is a transportation landmark worth exploring when the weather is benign. River and city views from the suspension bridge’s center section are breathtaking.
For an indoor exploration, the Cathedral Basilica of St. Peter and Paul is an impressive neoclassical landmark with elaborate interior details, including jaw-dropping artwork, that offers free self-guided tours. The Pope celebrated Catholic Mass here in 2015.
To learn more about the United States monetary system, the US Mint in Philadelphia also offers free tours Monday through Friday from 9 am to 4:30 pm.
An unusual Philadelphia landmark is Eastern State Penitentiary (2027 Fairmount Ave), where the American criminal justice system’s punishment phase was enforced from 1829 to 1971. Eastern State tells fascinating and disturbing human stories. The crumbling cellblocks resemble a horror movie backdrop. However, these creepy spaces are real, and over many years, confined thousands of inmates, including “Scarface” Al Capone. This old prison is a must-see site when visiting Philadelphia.
LOGISTICS
Similar to its food venues, Philadelphia offers many lodging options for any budget. In center city, Sonder (sonder.com) owns three properties offering upscale but affordable accommodations with kitchens, living rooms, and other apartment amenities. For a splurge, the Ritz-Carlton near City Hall has transformed a 1908 neoclassical bank building into a glamorous hotel. For a mid-price stay, the Fairfield Inn (261 S 13th St) sits in the heart of Philadelphia, close to restaurants and shopping.
Another consideration when visiting Philadelphia is to ditch the car and take the train. Amtrak runs reliable and comfortable passenger service from Harrisburg. The entrance point to the City of Brotherly Love is memorable as travelers arrive at the 30th Street Station, an American transportation and architectural icon.
Once in town, Philly’s SEPTA transportation system, with its subway, trams, and buses, allows easy travel without a personal vehicle, and alleviates parking hassles. Rideshare companies like Lyft and Uber are easily summoned as well.
Philadelphia offers the perfect ingredients for an enjoyable trip during all four seasons. When visiting the city, travelers explore intriguing sites without having to venture far from the central core. Within this vibrant cityscape are hundreds of unique discoveries, waiting only a few hours away.
